We knocked out 350 miles today on the
Alaska Highway today. The first 150 miles or so was a well developed and paved
highway. Surprisingly it was very heavily traveled by truck- most of which were
connected to the significant gas fields that are developing here in Alberta and
British Columbia.
As we moved north and west
the countryside was a sea of pines that were heavily infested with pine
beetles. After leaving Ft St John we drove and drove and drove rarely seeing a
car. The hard rule for the ALCAN is to drive on the top half of your tank
with the gas needle never dropping below 1/2. We didn't do that on the first
leg and we were a bit concerned, but in the end we made it to Ft Nelson, BC
with 1/4 of a tank. We won't do that again. Never saw a sole or a structure for
about 125 + miles. We did see cars passing us in the other direction every 5
minutes or so, but none in front or behind as far as we could see.
The
Trapper’s Den was recommended by Milepost as a must see place to visit. I was got some rabbit furs from my Dad
recently and wanted to see how they could be fashioned into mittens, hats, and
other accessories that I could make for my kids that leave in the frozen tundra
of Alaska and Clarkesville, Tenn. That
was a very interesting place. Some of
the pelts were so soft and beautifully fashioned. Most were lined with lambs wool for added
warmth. I got a pattern for mittens that
I plan on using.
As
we drove along, the Northern Rockies started appearing on our horizon. These mountains got bigger as we got closer
to them.
We gassed up and grabbed a burger at Ft
Nelson BC, then hit the road again around noon with about 150 more miles till
we hit our stopping point at a way station called Toad River. It had rained all
morning and the temps never made it out of the 40s. The weather started to
break after noon as we traveled more north and west through BC. But road
conditions deteriorated significantly. The roads were very worn and rough with
a good many frost heaves. The terrain became much more mountainous as we moved
into the northern Rockies. Hairpin and harsh curves became prevalent. On top of
that the warnings about big hairy wildlife were popping up regularly. The road
became more like a 2 lane country road and lane markings disappeared. The road
pavement was what is called "surface treatment "which I had not seen
used in many years- sprayed tar covered with soil and some aggregate. It makes
for good rural roads but for heavy travel it seemed pretty minimal. But
considering the distance that must be maintained it may be the right
application for the job.
Then the around another
curve it all came to an end. Road crews had totally torn up and removed about
20 miles of road and were rebuilding it anew. They had traffic shut down to
single lane guided by pilot cars at 20 minute intervals. The road was only
graded dirt for that 20 mile plus segment, and it was dusty and rough. I’m glad
we were in the truck camper and not trying to pull our 5th wheel
travel trailer through this terrain.
To make it more exciting
another moose decided to take a stab at trying to cross in front of us. He or
she backed off and went into the woods after Shiloh our hound dog vented.
We drove through some
pretty country. Some of the roads around
the mountains were a bit nerve racking with the sharp turns, no shoulder, and
loose gravel.
We arrived at Toad River RV
Park by mid-afternoon. This place was
the prettiest campground we have stayed.
Shiloh loved looking out over the lake with ducks and beaver.
The café ceiling is covered
with hats donated by people who have visited over the years.
There was a little squirrel
that kept teasing the dogs by squeaking and coming close to them, then running up
the tree.
At the end of our day, we were
treated with a rainbow settling in over the mountains across from the lake where
we were camping. This made the stay here
very special.
We are going to shoot for a
place in the Yukon tomorrow about 100 miles east of Whitehorse. We hope to visit
Laird Hot Springs along the way for a bit and to swim there.
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